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The Terrorist Handbook Part 1
1.1 Table of Contents
2.0 ....... BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
2.01 ........ Black Powder
2.02 ........ Pyrodex
2.03 ........ Rocket Engine Powder
2.04 ........ Rifle/Shotgun Powder
2.05 ........ Flash Powder
2.06 ........ Ammonium Nitrate
2.1 ....... ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
2.11 ........ Techniques for Picking Locks
2.2 ....... LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY
2.3 ....... PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
2.31 ........ Nitric Acid
2.32 ........ Sulfuric Acid
2.33 ........ Ammonium Nitrate
3.0 ....... EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
3.01 ........ Explosive Theory
3.1 ....... IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
3.11 ........ Ammonium Triiodide Crystals
3.12 ........ Mercury Fulminate
3.13 ........ Nitroglycerine
3.14 ........ Picrates
3.2 ....... LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES
3.21 ........ Black Powder
3.22 ........ Nitrocellulose
3.23 ........ Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures
3.24 ........ Perchlorates
3.3 ....... HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES
3.31 ........ R.D.X. (Cyclonite)
3.32 ........ Ammonium Nitrate
3.33 ........ ANFOS
3.34 ........ T.N.T.
3.35 ........ Potassium Chlorate
3.36 ........ Dynamite
3.37 ........ Nitrostarch Explosives
3.38 ........ Picric Acid
3.39 ........ Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D)
3.40 ........ Nitrogen Trichloride
3.41 ........ Lead Azide
3.5 ....... OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
3.51 ........ Thermit
3.52 ........ Molotov Cocktails
3.53 ........ Chemical Fire Bottle
3.54 ........ Bottled Gas Explosives
4.0 ....... USING EXPLOSIVES
4.1 ....... SAFETY
4.2 ....... IGNITION DEVICES
4.21 ........ Fuse Ignition
4.22 ........ Impact Ignition
4.23 ........ Electrical Ignition
4.24 ........ Electro - Mechanical Ignition
4.241 ....... Mercury Switches
4.242 ....... Tripwire Switches
4.243 ....... Radio Control Detonators
4.3 ....... DELAYS
4.31 ........ Fuse Delays
4.32 ........ Timer Delays
4.33 ........ Chemical Delays
4.4 ....... EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
4.41 ........ Paper Containers
4.42 ........ Metal Containers
4.43 ........ Glass Containers
4.44 ........ Plastic Containers
4.5 ....... ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
4.51 ........ Shaped Charges
4.52 ........ Tube Explosives
4.53 ........ Atomized Particle Explosions
4.54 ........ Lightbulb Bombs
4.55 ........ Book Bombs
4.56 ........ Phone Bombs
5.0 ....... SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
5.1 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE)
5.11 ........ Bow and Crossbow Ammunition
5.12 ........ Blowgun Ammunition
5.13 ........ Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition
5.2 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS)
5.21 ........ Handgun Ammunition
5.22 ........ Shotguns
5.3 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS)
5.31 ........ .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition
5.32 ........ .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition
6.0 ....... ROCKETS AND CANNONS
6.1 ....... ROCKETS
6.11 ........ Basic Rocket-Bomb
6.12 ........ Long Range Rocket-Bomb
6.13 ........ Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs
6.2 ........ CANNONS
6.21 ........ Basic Pipe Cannon
6.22 ........ Rocket-Firing Cannon
7.0 ....... PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
7.1 ......... Smoke Bombs
7.2 ......... Colored Flames
7.3 ......... Tear Gas
7.4 ......... Fireworks
7.41 ........ Firecrackers
7.42 ........ Skyrockets
7.43 ........ Roman Candles
8.0 ....... LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION
9.0 ....... CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS
10.0 ...... USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store
and a pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential
terrorists visit in order to purchase explosive material. All
that one has to do is know something about the non-explosive uses
of the materials. Black powder, for example, is used in
blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each
different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of
black powder depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is
used in; a fine grade of powder could burn too fast in the wrong
caliber weapon. The rule is: the smaller the grade, the faster
the burn rate of the powder.
2.01 BLACK POWDER
Black powder is generally available in three grades. As
stated before, the smaller the grade, the faster the powder
burns. Burn rate is extremely important in bombs. Since an
explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a confined
environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is
desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed
below, along with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are
used in. Generally, the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is
desirable. However, the other grades and uses are listed below:
GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN
F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles
FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles
FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers
The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller
grade has more surface area or burning surface exposed to the
flame front. The larger grades also have uses which will be
discussed later. The price range of black powder, per pound, is
about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the grade, and
so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade of
powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be
ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a
tendency to absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a
bomber would use a plastic spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking
a small pile at a time, he or she would apply pressure to the
powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or
circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is
about as fine as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on
what type of device one wishes to make; obviously, it would be
impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1 foot by 4 inch
radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since anyone can
own black powder firearms in America.
2.02 PYRODEX
Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black
powder. It comes in the same grades, but it is more expensive
per pound. However, a one pound container of pyrodex contains
more material by volume than a pound of black powder. It is much
easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and it
is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will
not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is
less inclined to absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per
pound. It can be crushed in the same manner as black powder, or
it can be dissolved in boiling water and dried.
2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER
One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry.
Estes is the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines.
Rocket engines are composed of a single large grain of
propellant. This grain is surrounded by a fairly heavy cardboard
tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube lengthwise,
and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done,
the grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be
removed. This is usually done gently with a plastic or brass
knife. The material is exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to
be used. By gripping the grain on the widest setting on a set of
pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag, the
powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This should be
done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be
crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes,
ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly powerful D engines.
The larger the engine, the more expensive. D engines come in
packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package. Rocket
engines are perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to
a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be cannibalized
for their explosive powder.
2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER
Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a
practicle standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based
propellants. They will be referred to as gunpowder in all future
references. Gunpowder is made by the action of concentrated
nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This material is then
dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain
size. When dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly
as important as that of black powder. Both large and small
grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly compared to black powder
when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both
hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure.
Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other
propellants is not necessary for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs
about $9.00 per pound. Any idiot can buy it, since there are no
restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the U.S.
2.05 FLASH POWDER
Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and
various oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks,
and should be treated with more care than black powder, with
which it should NEVER be mixed. It is sold in small containers
which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very finely
powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and
slow. The fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives
or detonators.
It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing,
with a hot white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly
expensive, costing about $11.00. It is sold in magic shops and
theatre supply stores.
2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often
used as a commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and
is difficult to ignite with a match. It will only light if the
glowing, red-hot part of a match is touching it. It is also
difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation will be
explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go
high explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small
amount of nitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium
nitrate is used in the "Cold-Paks" or "Instant Cold", available
in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks" consist of a bag of water,
surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the ammonium
nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of
the outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save the
ammonium nitrate in a well sealed, airtight container, since it
is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb water from the
air. It is also the main ingredient in many fertilizers.
2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This
section deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal
chemicals is a college. Many state schools have all of their
chemicals out on the shelves in the labs, and more in their
chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter lab
buildings, as there are the least number of people in the
buildings, and most of the labs will still be unlocked. One
simply takes a bookbag, wears a dress shirt and jeans, and tries
to resemble a college freshman. If anyone asks what such a person
is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking for the
polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related department
other than the one they are in. One can usually find out where
the various labs and departments in a building are by calling
the university. There are, of course other techniques for getting
into labs after hours, such as placing a piece of cardboard in
the latch of an unused door, such as a back exit. Then, all one
needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also, before this is
done, terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks
into a lab, even if there is someone there, and walks out the
back exit, and slip the cardboard in the latch before the door
closes, the person in the lab will never know what happened. It
is also a good idea to observe the building that one plans to rob
at the time that one plans to rob it several days before the
actual theft is done. This is advisable since the would-be thief
should know when and if the campus security makes patrols through
buildings. Of course, if none of these methods are successful,
there is always section 2.11, but as a rule, college campus
security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects another person in
the building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there at
an odd hour.
2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS
If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the
world's most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a
sledgehammer. There are unfortunately, problems with noise and
excess structural damage with these methods. The next best
thing, however, is a set of army issue lockpicks. These,
unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is
locked, but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other
possibilities. The rule here is: if one can see the latch, one
can open the door. There are several devices which facilitate
freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental tools, stiff
wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin
pocket- knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The
way that all these tools and devices are uses is similar: pull,
push, or otherwise move the latch out of its hole in the wall,
and pull the door open. This is done by sliding whatever tool
that you are using behind the latch, and pulling the latch out
from the wall. To make an aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can
use an aluminum can and carefully cut off the can top and bottom.
Cut off the cans' ragged ends. Then, cut the open-ended cylinder
so that it can be flattened out into a single long rectangle.
This should then be cut into inch wide strips. Fold the strips in
1/4 inch increments (1). One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4
inch wide strip of aluminum. This should be folded into an
L-shape, a J-shape, or a U-shape. This is done by folding. The
pieces would look like this:
(1)
________________________________________________________
|_______________________________________________________| | 1/4"
|_______________________________________________________| | 1/4"
|_______________________________________________________| | 1/4"
|_______________________________________________________| | 1/4"
Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of
aluminum. This should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U
shaped device that looks like this: __________________________________________
/ ________________________________________|
| |
| | L-shaped
| |
| |
|_|
_____________________________
/ ___________________________|
| |
| | J-shaped
| |
| |________
\________|
_____________________
/ ___________________|
| |
| |
| | U-shaped
| |
| |____________________
\____________________|
All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a
door and pull the latch out of its hole. The folds in the
lockpicks will be between the door and the wall, and so the
device will not unfold, if it is made properly.
2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY
Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores,
supermarkets, and drug stores to get the materials to make
explosives or other dangerous compounds. A would-be terrorist
would merely need a station wagon and some money to acquire many
of the chemicals named here. Chemical Used In Available at
-----------------------------------------------------------------
alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores
solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores
_________________________________________________________________
ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven
_________________________________________________________________
ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores,
nitrate fertilizers medical supply stores
_________________________________________________________________
nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores
_________________________________________________________________
magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores
_________________________________________________________________
lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores
_________________________________________________________________
mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores
_________________________________________________________________
mercury @ mercury thermometers supermarkets/hardware stores
_________________________________________________________________
sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores
_________________________________________________________________
glycerine ? pharmacies/drug stores
_________________________________________________________________
sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store
_________________________________________________________________
charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets/gardening stores
_________________________________________________________________
sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store
_________________________________________________________________
cellulose (cotton) first aid drug/medical supply stores
_________________________________________________________________
strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores,
_________________________________________________________________
fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus/camping stores,
_________________________________________________________________
bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores,
_________________________________________________________________
potassium permanganate water purification purification plants
_________________________________________________________________
hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores
methenamine (camping)
_________________________________________________________________
nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops
plates photography stores
_________________________________________________________________
iodine & first aid drug stores
_________________________________________________________________
sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores
for cutting torches
_________________________________________________________________
notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is
used as a solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent
alcohol must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make
mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate
from forming.
+ Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of
forms. The pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only
the clear ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide
crystals.
@ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately.
They may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is also used in
mercury switches, which are available at electronics stores.
Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should be kept in the
thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury
vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this
reason, it is a good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use
it outdoors. Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber gloves
will help prevent this.
^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is
usually stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described
in a later section. A desired concentration for making
explosives about 70%.
& The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure
crystaline form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide
crystals. To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by
a doctor's prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again,
theft is the means that terrorists result to.
2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
2.31 NITRIC ACID
There are several ways to make this most essential of all
acids for explosives. One method by which it could be made will
be presented. Once again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD
NOT BE CARRIED OUT!!
Materials: Equipment:
sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source
potassium nitrate retort
distilled water ice bath stirring rod
concentrated sulfuric acid collecting flask with stopper
1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the
retort.
2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of
potassium nitrate and add this to the acid slowly. If it all
does not dissolve, carefully stir the solution with a glass rod
until it does.
3) Place the open and of the retort into the collecting flask,
and place the collecting flask in the ice bath.
4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating
until liquid begins to come out of the end of the retort. The
liquid that forms is nitric acid. Heat until the precipitate in
the bottom of the retort is almost dry, or until no more nitric
acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is heated too strongly,
the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This can
result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses
that may explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus
up, and then get away from it.
Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought
black powder, simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water
and filtering out the sulfur and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of
potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to dissolve about 90 g
of black powder in about one litre of boiling water. Filter the
dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar
until the liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and
sulfur in black powder are insoluble in water, and so when the
solution of water is allowed to evaporate, potassium nitrate will
be left in the jar.
2.32 SULFURIC ACID
Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a
laboratory or industrial plant. However, it is readily available
in an uncharged car battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric
acid would simply remove the top of a car battery and pour the
acid into a glass container. There would probably be pieces of
lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed,
either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the
sulfuric acid can also be increased by boiling it; very pure
sulfuric acid pours slightly faster than clean motor oil.
2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive
high-order explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring
nitric acid into a large flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply
pouring household ammonia into the flask and running away,
ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have
stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in
a warm place until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia
or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine powder formed,
which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight
container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air.
The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated
VERY gently to drive off the remaining water.
3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT
TO PRODUCE ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL
AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR
LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE
EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS.
These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an
individual could conceivably produce the materials described.
The methods here are usually scaled-down industrial procedures.
3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY
An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or
shock, undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process
releases energy that is stored in the material in the form of
heat and light, or by breaking down into gaseous compounds that
occupy a much larger volume that the original piece of material.
Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air are
displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a
speed greater than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom
occurs. This explains the mechanics behind an explosion.
Explosives occur in several forms: high-order explosives which
detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers, which
may do both.
High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in
a high order explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a
shockwave that passes through a block of the high explosive
material. The shockwave breaks apart the molecular bonds between
the atoms of the substance, at a rate approximately equal to the
speed of sound traveling through that material. In a high
explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the
shockwave breaks apart these bonds, and re-combines the two
materials to produce mostly gasses. T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and
R.D.X. are examples of high order explosives.
Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo
oxidation. when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to
produce heat, light, and gaseous products. Some low order
materials burn at about the same speed under pressure as they do
in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as gunpowder,
which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and
hotter when they are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a
firearm; they usually burn much slower than blackpowder when they
are ignited in unpressurized conditions. Black powder,
nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order
explosives. Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of
them, such as mercury filminate, will function as a low or high
order explosive. They are usually more sensitive to friction,
heat, or shock, than the high or low explosives. Most primers
perform like a high order explosive, except that they are much
more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are
confined, they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of
gasses and a shockwave. Primers are usually used in a small
amount to initiate, or cause to decompose, a high order
explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are also
frequently used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder
in a bullet is ignited by the detonation of its primer.
3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones
discussed here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are
real explosives; Ammonium triiodide crystals decompose upon
impact, but they release little heat and no light. Impact
explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even
the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low
explosives.
3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS
Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored
crystals that decompose under the slightest amount of heat,
friction, or shock, if they are made with the purest ammonia
(ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such crystals are said to
detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks across
them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as
soaps and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate
when thrown,crushed, or heated. Upon detonation, a loud report
is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine gas appears about the
detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface that the
crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the
iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine
is corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple
stains on whatever it contacts. Iodine gas is also bad news,
since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the ground and
stains things there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on
the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately
and vigorously washed off. While such a compound would have
little use to a serious terrorist, a vandal could utilize them in
damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of them
into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly
injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small
crystal that not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud
explosion. Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the
following manner:
Materials Equipment
iodine crystals funnel and filter paper
clear ammonia paper towels
(ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars
for the suicidal)
1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass
jars. The jars must both be throw away because they will never
be clean again.
2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.
3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper
in the funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel
is taught in every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular
paper in half, so that a semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in
half again to form a triangle with one curved side. Pull one
thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone into
the funnel.
4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while,
pour the solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter
paper.
5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into
the first jar to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as
soon as it drains.
6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown
filter paper, and place them on the paper towels to dry for about
an hour. Make sure that they are not too close to any lights or
other sources of heat, as they could well detonate. While they
are still wet, divide the wet material into about eight chunks.
7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square
inch piece of duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and
gently press the duct tape together around the crystal, making
sure not to press the crystal itself. Finally, cut away most of
the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and store the
crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of
about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers
that can be thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly
decompose, a process which gives off iodine vapors, which will
stain whatever they settle on. One possible way to increase
their shelf life is to store them in airtight containers. To use
them, simply throw them against any surface or place them where
they will be stepped on or crushed.
3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE
Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known
initiating compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or
shock, which would make it of infinite value to a terrorist.
Even the action of dropping a crystal of the fulminate causes it
to explode. A person making this material would probably use the
following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
mercury (5 g) glass stirring rod
concentrated nitric 100 ml beaker (2)
acid (35 ml) adjustable heat source
ethyl alcohol (30 ml) funnel and filter paper
distilled water blue litmus paper
1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated
nitric acid, using the glass rod.
2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which
is when the solution turns green and boils.
3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and
slowly and carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker
to it. Red and/or brown fumes should appear. These fumes are
toxic and flammable.
4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white,
indicating that the reaction is near completion. After ten more
minutes, add 30 ml of the distilled water to the solution.
5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from
the liquid solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as
it is corrosive and toxic.
6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove
as much excess acid as possible. Test the crystals with the
litmus paper until they are neutral. This will be when the
litmus paper stays blue when it touches the wet crystals
7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far
away from any explosive or flammable material.
This procedure can also be done by volume, if the
available mercury cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of
nitric acid and 10 volumes of ethanol to every one volume of
mercury.
3.13 NITROGLYCERINE
Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if
it is not the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it
safely, it is difficult. Many a young anarchist has been killed
or seriously injured while trying to make the stuff. When
Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the
all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is
made, it is converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite.
An idiot who attempts to make nitroglycerine would use the
following procedure:
MATERIAL EQUIPMENT
distilled water eye-dropper
table salt 100 ml beaker
sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2)
concentrated nitric ice bath container
acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well )
concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer
acid (39 ml) blue litmus paper
glycerine
1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml
beakers.
2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled
water and about a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them
until the sodium bicarbonate dissolves. Do not put so much
sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some remains undissolved.
3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with
ice, and adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt,
lowering the overall temperature.
4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml
of concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that
the beaker will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice
bath will not overflow into the beaker when more materials are
added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice bath container
to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the acid down to about
20 degrees centigrade or less.
5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and
carefully add the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the
nitric acid. Mix the two acids together, and cool the mixed
acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a good idea to start
another ice bath to do this.6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed
acids, one drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of
the mixture where the mixed acids and glycerine meet. DO NOT
ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE
TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN LIKE HELL!!!
The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the
temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until
there is a thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It
is always safest to make any explosive in small quantities.
7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes
of nitration, adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the
temperature of the solution in the 100 ml beaker well below 30
degrees centigrade. Usually, the nitroglycerine will form on the
top of the mixed acid solution, and the concentrated sulfuric
acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction.
8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well
below 30 degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the
solution of nitroglycerine and mixed acid into the distilled
water in the beaker in step 1. The nitroglycerine should settle
to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid solution on top
can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the
acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the
nitroglycerine.
9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper,
and place it into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate
solution will eliminate much of the acid, which will make the
nitroglycerine more stable, and less likely to explode for no
reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine with the litmus
paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if
necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.
10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it
in a clean container in a safe place. The best place to store
nitroglycerine is far away from anything living, or from anything
of any value. Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason,
even if it is stored in a secure cool place.
3.14 PICRATES
Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or
trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described
first, since they are extremely sensitive, and detonate on
impact. By mixing picric acid with metal hydroxides, such as
sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating the water, metal
picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or produce
it, and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium
hydroxide, of a mid range molarity. (about 6-9 M) This
material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive, and can be used
as an initiator for any type of high explosive.3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in
gun stores and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible
that a wise wise store owner would not sell these substances to a
suspicious-looking individual. Such an individual would then be
forced to resort to making his own low-order explosives.
3.21 BLACK POWDER
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder
was first used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It
is very simple to make, but it is not very powerful or safe.
Only about 50% of black powder is converted to hot gasses when it
is burned; the other half is mostly very fine burned particles.
Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by static
electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material
must be made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided
individual could manufacture black powder at home with the
following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
potassium clay grinding bowl
nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder
or or
sodium wooden salad bowl
nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon
sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3)
charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1)
distilled water coffee pot or heat source
1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the
grinding bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all
of the potassium or sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder
in one of the plastic bags.
2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each
chemical in a separate plastic bag.
3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in
the beaker, and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to
get it all wet.
4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet
potassium or sodium nitrate, and mix them well for several
minutes. Do this until there is no more visible sulfur or
charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.
5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct
sunlight. Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder,
since it is never too hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the
water.6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a
safe container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed
by paper. Never store black powder in a plastic bag, since
plastic bags are prone to generate static electricity.
3.22 NITROCELLULOSE
Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton".
It is more stable than black powder, and it produces a much
greater volume of hot gas. It also burns much faster than black
powder when it is in a confined space. Finally, nitrocellulose is
fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers
concentrated nitric acid funnel and filter paper
concentrated sulfuric acid blue litmus paper
distilled water
1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add
to this 10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.
2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for
exactly 3 minutes.
3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of
distilled water to wash it in.
4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it
is ready to be dried and stored.
3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES
There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer
mixtures that can be produced by a misguided individual in his
own home. Some are very effective and dangerous, while others
are safer and less effective. A list of working fuel-oxodizer
mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each
compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough
estimate will be given of the percentages of each fuel and
oxodizer: oxidizer, fuel, speed # notes
% by weight % by weight
=================================================================
potassium chlorate sulfur 5 friction/impact
67% 33% sensitive; unstable
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium chlorate sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning;
50% charcoal 15% unstable
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium chlorate sulfur 25% 8 extremely unstable!
50% magnesium or aluminum dust 25%
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium chlorate magnesium or 8 unstable
67% aluminum dust 33%
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
sodium nitrate magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable
65% sulfur 5% burn rate
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium permanganate glycerine 4 delay before
60% 40% ignition depends
WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium permanganate sulfur 5 unstable
67% 33%
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium permangenate sulfur 20% 5 unstable
60% magnesium or
aluminum dust 20%
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium permanganate sugar 3 ?
50% 50%
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium nitrate charcoal 15% 7 this is
75% sulfur 10% black powder!
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium nitrate powdered iron 1 burns very hot
60% or magnesium 40% oxidizer, fuel, speed # notes
% by weight % by weight
=================================================================
potassium chlorate phosphorus 8 used to make strike-
75% sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
ammonium perchlorate aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for
70% and small amount of space shuttle
iron oxide
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33%
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder
sulfur 20%
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate
potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate
aluminum dust 5% flash powder
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium perchlorate sulfur 25% 8 slightly
50% magnesium or unstable
aluminum dust 25%
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable
calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium permanganate powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable;
50% aluminum or ignites if
magnesium dust 25% it gets wet!
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable
sulfur 10%
=================================================================
NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for
potassium perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.
The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer
mixture burns AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the
powder, the faster the rate of burning.
As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of
fuel-oxodizer mixtures hat can be made at home. By altering the
amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s), different burn rates can be
achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity of the
mixture.3.24 PERCHLORATES
As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with
perchloric acid will become a low order explosive. Metals,
however, such as potassium or sodium, become excellent bases for
flash-type powders. Some materials that can be perchlorated are
cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or sodium
perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g.
sodium or potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the
material to be perchlorated with a very small amount of acid,
since some of the materials tend to react explosively when
contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium
hydroxide are ideal.
3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
High order explosives can be made in the home without too
much difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid
to produce the high explosive. Most high explosives detonate
because their molecular structure is made up of some fuel and
usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide ) molecules.
T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a
material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of
T.N.T., the nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen
combines with the fuel, all in a matter of microseconds. This
accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based explosives.
Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT,
several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the
home are listed.
3.31 R.D.X.
R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when
mixed with plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all
military explosives. This is because it has more than 150% of
the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to detonate. It should
not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too severe
shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or
nitroglycerine, but it is still too sensitive to be used alone.
R.D.X. can be made by the surprisingly simple method outlined
hereafter. It is much easier to make in the home than all other
high explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium nitrate.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
hexamine 500 ml beaker
or glass stirring rod
methenamine funnel and filter paper
fuel tablets (50 g) blue litmus paper
concentrated centigrade thermometer
nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container
distilled water (plastic bucket)
table salt
ice
ammonium nitrate1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps
3-4) and carefully pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into
the beaker.
2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add
small amounts of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The
temperature will rise, and it must be kept below 30 degrees
centigrade, or dire consequences could result. Stir the mixture.
3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by
adding more ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a
new ice bath. Or, ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice
bath, since it becomes cold when it is put in water. Continue
stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below zero degrees
centigrade for at least twenty minutes
4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir
the mixture, and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter
out the crystals, and dispose of the corrosive liquid.
5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled
water. Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus
paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue.
This will make the crystals more stable and safe.
6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry
completely before using them. (R.D.X. is not stable enough to use
alone as an explosive.)
7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight)
with 11.1% mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material
together in a plastic bag. This is a good way to desensitize the
explosive.)
8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50,
by weight. it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as
straight R.D.X.
9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after
step 5, it should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and
increase its power, since ammonium nitrate is very insensitive
and powerful. Soduim or potassium nitrate could also be added; a
small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X.
10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is
compressed to a density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to
the hap-hazard method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from
a construction site, since it is usually used in blasting,
because it is very stable and insensitive to shock and heat. A
terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a drug
store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with
ammonium nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be
detonating it. A rather powerful priming charge must be used,
and usually with a booster charge. The diagram below will
explain.
_________________________________________
| | |
________| | |
| | T.N.T.| ammonium nitrate |
|primer |booster| |
|_______| | |
| | |
|_______|_______________________________|
The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates,
sending a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate,
detonating it.
3.33 ANFOS
ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution.
An ANFO solves the only other major problem with ammonium
nitrate: its tendency to pick up water vapor from the air. This
results in the explosive failing to detonate when such an attempt
is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight) ammonium
nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the
ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO
also requires a large shockwave to set it off.
3.34 T.N.T.
T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest
known high explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is
certainly the best known high explosive, since it has been
popularized by early morning cartoons. It is the standard for
comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well known.
In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process
that is designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which
are used to make the product. A terrorist, however, would
probably opt for the less economical one step method. The one
step process is performed by treating toluene with very strong
(fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated
with very strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water
is added the solution, and it is filtered.3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE
Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it
can be obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a
small amount of vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a
shockwave is passed through it, the material will detonate with
slightly more power than black powder. It must, however, be
confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making
such an explosive is outlined below:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag
(9 parts, by volume) clay grinding bowl
petroleum jelly or
(vaseline) wooden bowl and wooden spoon
(1 part, by volume)
1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully
and slowly, until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder.
The finer that it is powdered, the faster (better) it will
detonate.
2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum
jelly into the plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the
bag as possible, i.e. put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate
powder.
3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of
the potassium chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the
main glob. If necessary, add a bit more petroleum jelly to the
bag.
4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture
will react to greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive.
This reaction, however, is harmless, and releases no heat or
dangerous products.
3.36 DYNAMITE
The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis",
meaning power. Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he
made nitroglycerine. It was made because nitroglycerine was so
dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided individual with some
sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act) would
immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding
various materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The
sawdust holds a large weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other
materials, such as ammonium nitrate could be added, and they
would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase the power.
But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe.3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES
Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly
powerful. All that need be done is treat various starches with a
mixture of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of
concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 ml of concentrated
nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. Cold
water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is
filtered out. Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power
than T.N.T., but they are more readily detonated.
3.38 PICRIC ACID
Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a
military explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to
set off another less sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It
another explosive that is fairly simple to make, assuming that
one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids. Its
procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab
manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric
acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable
picrate salts, such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is
usually made into a safer form, such as ammonium picrate, also
called explosive D. A social deviant would probably use a
formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask
concentrated adjustable heat source
sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) 1000 ml beaker
concentrated nitric or other container
acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in
distilled water filter paper
and funnel
glass stirring rod
1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully
add 12.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling
container and bring the water to a gentle boil.
3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it
in the boiling water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol
and acid for about thirty minutes. After thirty minutes, take
the flask out, and allow it to cool for about five minutes.
4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the
container to cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the
one used in section 3.13, steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with
the mixed acid an phenol in the ice bath. Add 38 ml of
concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the mixture
constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur.
When the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of
the ice bath.5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin
boiling more tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture
in the boiling water, and heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to
2 hours.
6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill
it in an ice bath until it is cold.
7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring
the solution through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the
liquid and dispose of it in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the
contents of the filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water,
and shake vigorously.
9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container,
since they will react with metal containers to produce picrates
that could explode spontaneously.
3.39 AMMONIUM PICRATE
Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety
explosive. It requires a substantial shock to cause it to
detonate, slightly less than that required to detonate ammonium
nitrate. It is much safer than picric acid, since it has little
tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when placed in metal
containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear
household ammonia. All that need be done is put the picric acid
crystals into a glass container and dissolve them in a great
quantity of hot water. Add clear household ammonia in excess,
and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. The powder remaining
should be ammonium picrate.
3.40 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE
Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an
oily yellow liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated
above 60 degrees celsius, or when it comes in contact with an
open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to produce.
1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate
in water. Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution
that some of it remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.
2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by
mixing hydrochloric acid with potassium permanganate in a large
flask with a stopper and glass pipe.3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on
top of the beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and
tape the beakers together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When
this is done, oily yellow droplets will begin to form on the
surface of the solution, and sink down to the bottom. At this
time, remove the heat source immediately.
Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium
nitrate solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but
this requires timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test
tube.
The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia
gas, by gently heating a flask filled with clear household
ammonia. Place the glass tubes from the chlorine-generating
flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating flask in another
flask that contains water.
4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them
immediately, since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours.
3.41 LEAD AZIDE
Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster
charge for other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as
a fairly sensitive explosive. It does not detonate too easily by
percussion or impact, but it is easily detonated by heat from an
igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is simple to produce,
assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured.
By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in
separate beakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous
state. Mix the two beakers together, and apply a gentle heat.
Add an excess of the lead acetate solution, until no reaction
occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the beaker stops
forming. Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in
hot water. The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored
wet for safety. If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire
acetic acid, and put lead metal in it. Black powder bullets work
well for this purpose.
3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
The remaining section covers the other types of materials
that can be used to destroy property by fire. Although none of
the materials presented here are explosives, they still produce
explosive-style results.3.51 THERMIT
Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate
tremendous amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23
because it does not react nearly as readily. It is a mixture of
iron oxide and aluminum, both finely powdered. When it is
ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen from the
iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that
produce a combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is
half the heat produced by an atomic weapon. It is difficult to
ignite, however, but when it is ignited, it is one of the most
effective firestarters around.
MATERIALS
powdered aluminum (10 g)
powdered iron oxide (10 g)
1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make
thermit. Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make
the mixture as homogenous as possible. The ratio of iron oxide
to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and be made in greater or
lesser amounts.
2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small
amount of potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few
drops of sulfuric acid on it. This method and others will be
discussed later in section 4.33. The other method of igniting
thermit is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by using common
sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture can be
ignited.
3.52 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS
First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov
cocktail is now exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They
are extremely simple to make, and can produce devastating
results. By taking any highly flammable material, such as
gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter
fluid, turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it
into a large glass bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb.
After putting the flammable liquid in the bottle, simply put a
piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid in the top of the
bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the cloth
around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of
lose cloth to light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the
bottle. If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle
breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a
large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame.
Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed
with a more volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to
insure ignition. A mixture such as tar or grease and gasoline
will stick to the surface that it strikes, and burn hotter, and
be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this must be
shaken well before it is lit and thrown3.53 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE
The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov
cocktail. Rather than using the burning cloth to ignite the
flammable liquid, which has at best a fair chance of igniting the
liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the very hot and
violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate.
When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of
gasoline sprays onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and
sugar. The paper, when struck by the acid, instantly bursts into
a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance of failure to
ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if
there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
potassium chlorate glass bottle
(2 teaspoons) (12 oz.)
sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle,
gasoline (8 oz.) with plastic inside
concentrated cooking pan with raised
sulfuric acid (4 oz.) edges
paper towels
glass or plastic cup
and spoon
1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid
to make sure that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap
during storage. If the acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new
top must be found and tested, until a cap that the acid does not
eat through is found. A glass top is excellent.
2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.
3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the
glass bottle. Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the
bottle, and screw the cap on the bottle. Wash the bottle's
outside with plenty of water. Set it aside to dry.
4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two
teaspoons of sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2
cup of boiling water, or enough to dissolve all of the potassium
chlorate and sugar.
5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised
edges. Fold the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of
dissolved potassium chlorate and sugar on it until it is
thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to dry.
6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass
bottle containing the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap
the paper towel around the bottle, making sure that it sticks to
it in all places. Store the bottle in a place where it will not
be broken or tipped over.
7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two
distinct liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and
a clear solution on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use
the chemical fire bottle, simply throw it at any hard surface.
8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON
THE CAP, WHICH COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND
IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.
9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off
the bottle, and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The
paper towel should immediately burst into a white flame.
3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES
Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane
for propane stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce
a powerful explosion. To make such a device, all that a
simple-minded anarchist would have to do would be to take his
container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or
other gelatinized fuel, and light the fuel and run. Depending on
the fuel used, and on the thickness of the fuel container, the
liquid gas will boil and expand to the point of bursting the
container in about five minutes. In theory, the gas would
immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing
a large fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of
the bottled gas container often puts out the fuel, thus
preventing the expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal
bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of
ignition are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be
extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed of
burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most
effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since
although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame
of the gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately
re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or
any other flammable gas will do nicely.
4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES
Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical
step is to apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from
harassment, to vandalism, to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED
HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, EITHER IN PART OR IN FULL!
DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT!
The first step that a person that would use explosive would take
would be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed
to do whatever had to be done. Then, he would have to decide what
to make his bomb with. He would also have to decide on how he
wanted to detonate the device, and determine where the best
placement for it would be. Then, it would be necessary to see if
the device could be put where he wanted it without it being
discovered or moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down
and build his explosive device. These are some of the topics
covered in the next section.4.1 SAFETY
There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One
can only speak in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe.
4.2 IGNITION DEVICES
There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is
the classic "light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach,
and there are sensitive mercury switches, and many things in
between. Generally, electrical detonation systems are safer than
fuses, but there are times when fuses are more appropriate than
electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical
detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being
caught. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be
easier to hide.
4.21 FUSE IGNITION
The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the
favorite type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a
piece of waterproof fuse in a device, one can have almost
guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse is extremely
reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It
is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and
costs about $3.00 for a nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular
ignition system for pipe bombers because of its simplicity. All
that need be done is light it with a match or lighter. Of
course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which
uses fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade
ignition system can be acquired, by all means, it is the most
effective. But, since such things do not just float around, the
next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does not
require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its
simplicity. One such method is described below:
MATERIALS
strike-on-cover type matches
electrical tape or duct tape
waterproof fuse
1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse,
simply measure a 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it.
With a stopwatch, press the start button the at the instant when
the fuse lights, and stop the watch when the fuse reaches its
end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and you have
the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be
shown below:
Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its
complete time of combustion is 20 seconds.
20 seconds
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ = 2.5 seconds per inch.
8 inches If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide
the desired time by the number of seconds per inch:
10 seconds
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ = 4 inches
2.5 seconds / inch
NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER.
SOME FUSE, AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS
ADD THIS EXTRA INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE
DEVICE!!!
2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the
explosive device is to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the
premeasured amount of fuse, and cut it off.
3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match
case. Do not pull off individual matches; keep all the matches
attached to the cardboard base. Take one of the cardboard match
sections, and leave the other one to make a second igniter.
4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of
the matches touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there
securely, making sure not to put tape over the match heads. Make
sure they are very secure by pulling on them at the base of the
assembly. They should not be able to move.
5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to
the fuse, making sure that the striker paper is below the match
heads and the striker faces the match heads. Tape the paper so
that is fairly tight around the matches. Do not tape the cover of
the striker to the fuse or to the matches. Leave enough of the
match book to pull on for ignition. _____________________
\ /
\ / ------ match book cover
\ /
| M|f|M ---|------- match head
| A|u|A |
| T|s|T |
| C|e|C |
|tapeH|.|Htape|
| |f| |
|#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper
|#####|s|#####|
\ |e| /
\ |.| /
\ |f| /
\ |u| /
|ta|s|pe|
|ta|e|pe|
|.|
|f|
|u|
|s|
|e|
|.|
|_|
The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped
to itself. The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will
rub against the matcheads when the match book is pulled.
6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should
pull the striking paper across the match heads with enough
friction to light them. In turn, the burning matcheads will light
the fuse, since it adjacent to the burning match heads.
4.22 IMPACT IGNITION
Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for
spontaneous terrorist activities. The problem with an
impact-detonating device is that it must be kept in a very safe
container so that it will not explode while being transported to
the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a
removable impact initiator. The best and most reliable impact
initiator is one that uses factory made initiators or primers. A
no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such primer. They
usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such a
cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black
powder nipples are also available in gun stores. All that a
person has to do is ask for a package of nipples and the caps
that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the way through
them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on.
A cutaway of a nipple is shown below: ________________
| |
_ |
| | |
_______| |^^^^^^^^| |
| ___________| |
| | |
no. 11 |_______| |
percussion _______ | - threads for screwing
cap here | | | nipple onto bomb
| |___________ |
|_______ | |
| |^^^^^^^^| |
|_| |
| |
|________________|
When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be
drilled into whatever container is used to make the bomb out of.
The nipple is then screwed into the hole so that it fits tightly.
Then, the cap can be carried and placed on the bomb when it is to
be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount before it is
placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The
only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is
that it must strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off.
By attaching fins or a small parachute on the end of the bomb
opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown, should strike the
ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with mercury
fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which
end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off
if the person carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION
Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the
safest and most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are
ideal for demolition work, if one doesn't have to worry so much
about being caught. With two spools of 500 ft of wire and a car
battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe", comfortable
distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get
hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what
time a device will explode, within fractions of a second.
Detonation can be aborted in less than a second's warning, if a
person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or if a police car
chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters
are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps
for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold
in packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need
be done to use them is connect it to two wires and run a current
through them. Military squibs are difficult to get, but they are
a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run
through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame.
Military squibs can be used to set off sensitive high explosives,
such as R.D.X., or potassium chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly.
Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate,
or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order explosive.
4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION
Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use
some type of mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge
electrically. This type of switch is typically used in booby
traps or other devices in which the person who places the bomb
does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it explodes.
Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed
4.241 Mercury Switches
Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that
mercury metal conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury
metal is a liquid at room temperatures. A typical mercury switch
is a sealed glass tube with two electrodes and a bead of mercury
metal. It is sealed because of mercury's nasty habit of giving
off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to explain
a mercury switch.
______________
A / \ B
_____wire +______/___________ \
\ ( Hg ) | /
\ _(_Hg_)__|___/
|
|
wire - |
|
|
When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol)
touches both contacts, current flows through the switch. If this
particular switch was in its present position, A---B, current
would be flowing, since the mercury can touch both contacts in
the horizontal position.
If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury
would only touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then
couldn't flow, since mercury does not reach both contacts when
the switch is in the vertical position.
This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were
placed in the path of a swinging door in the verticle position,
the motion of the door would knock the switch down, if it was
held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt the switch
into the verticle position, causing the mercury to touch both
contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to
the igniter or squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a
door and having it slammed in your face by an explosion.4.242 Tripwire Switches
A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By
placing a nearly invisible line of string or fishing line in the
probable path of a victim, and by putting some type of trap there
also, nasty things can be caused to occur. If this mode of
thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a
tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By
wrapping the tips of a standard clothespin with aluminum foil,
and placing something between them, and connecting wires to each
aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can be made, If a
piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between the
contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a
switch. When the tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap
together, allowing current to flow between the two pieces of
aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit, which would have the
igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the contacts
to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it
it to explode.
__________________________________
\_foil___________________________/
Insert strip of ----------------------------spring
wood with trip- _foil__________________________
wire between foil /_______________________________\
contacts.
Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the
spring, since the spring also conducts electricity.
4.243 Radio Control Detonators
In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio
controlled detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio
detonator, one can be several miles away from the device, and
still control exactly when it explodes, in much the same way as
an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonators is that
they are rather costly. However, there could possibly be a
reason that a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money
involved with a RC (radio control) system and use it as a
detonator. If such an individual wanted to devise an RC
detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby store
or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to
his/her abode, all that he/she would have to do is detach the
solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front wheels of a
RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a
RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the squib or
rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor.
The device should be tested several times with squibs or
igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both he
controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts
before the device became a detonator).4.3 DELAYS
A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a
device is set up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is
a delay, but it would cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay
with a fuse. This section deals with the different types of
delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be sure
that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country
when it does.
4.31 FUSE DELAYS
It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that
employ fuses for ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is
with a cigarette. An average cigarette burns for about 8
minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating, the slower the
cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker
than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also
less likely to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked.
Depending on the wind or draft in a given place, a high "tar"
cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of a fuse, but
there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough
oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of
delaying fuses will often test the cigarettes that they plan to
use in advance to make sure they stay lit and to see how long it
will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate is determined, it is a
simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way through a
cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the
fuse for a device in the hole formed.
|=|
|=| ---------- filter
|=|
| |
| |
|o| ---------- hole for fuse
cigarette ------------ | |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_| ---------- light this end A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal
and a sheet of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin
tube, and fill it with powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at
the desired location, and insert a fuse. Both ends must be glued
closed, and one end of the delay must be doused with lighter
fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed
with powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a
delay. A chain of charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by
merely lining up a few bricks of charcoal so that they touch each
other, end on end, and lighting the first brick. Incense, which
can be purchased at almost any novelty or party supply store, can
also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the fuse
about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour
are possible.
Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning
fuse in the home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black
powder in about 1/4 a cup of boiling water, and, while it is
still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all cotton string, a
slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, it
must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes,
the end of the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a
charge of black powder or gunpowder at the intersection point to
insure ignition, since the slow-burning fuse does not burn at a
very high temperature. A similar type of slow fuse can be made by
taking the above mixture of boiling water and black powder and
pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper
is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker
fuse, and is allowed to dry.
4.32 TIMER DELAYS
Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an
individual who wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand
money to reveal its location and means to disarm it. Such a
device could be placed in any populated place if it were
concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer
delay. By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that
detonation is desired, and using the hour hand of a clock as the
other contact, a simple timer can be made. The minute hand of a
clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than an hour is
desired. _____________________________to igniter from igniter
| | | :
| 12 | : :
| 11 1 | : :
| / | : :
| 10 / 2 | : :
| o..............|..: :
| / | :
| 9 0 3 | :
| | :
| | :
| 8 4 | :
| o.........|..... :
| 7 5 | : :
| 6 | + -
|__________________________________| |_____|_____
| |
| battery |
o - contacts | |
..... - wire | |
/ - Hand |___________|
This device is set to go off in eleven hours. When the hour
hand of the clock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will
complete the circuit, allowing current to flow through the
igniter or squib.
The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can
only be set for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic
timer is used, such as that in an electronic clock, then delays
of up to 24 hours are possible. By removing the speaker from an
electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or igniter
to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. To
utilize this type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock
can be plugged into. All that one has to do is set the alarm time
of the clock to the desired time, connect the leads, and go away.
This could also be done with an electronic watch, if a larger
battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the watch
was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such
a timer could be extremely small. The timer in a VCR (Video
Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can usually be set for
times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the recording
equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be
connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores
that would be ideal. Finally, one could employ a digital watch,
and use a relay, or electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter,
and the current of the watch would not have to be stepped up.4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS
Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely
effective in some cases. If a glass container is filled with
concentrated sulfuric acid, and capped with several thicknesses
of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat through, then it can
be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum foil
to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the
container must be open to the air on one end so that the pressure
of the hydrogen gas that is forming does not break the container.
See diagram on following page.
_ _
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |_____________| |
| | | |
| | sulfuric | |
| | | |
| | acid | |
| | | |---------- aluminum foil
| |_____________| | (several thicknesses)
|_________________|
The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container
and secured there with tape. When the acid eats through the
aluminum foil, it can be used to ignite an explosive device in
several ways.
1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the
acid that eats through the foil is collected in a glass
container placed underneath the foil, and two wires are
placed in the glass container, a current will be able to
flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in
the acid.
2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate.
If the acid drips down into a container containing potassium
chlorate, the potassium chlorate will burst into flame.
This flame can be used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium
chlorate can be the igniter for a thermit bomb, if some
potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the
thermit, and this mixture is used as an igniter for the rest
of the thermit.
3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a
similar way.4.4 EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
This section will cover everything from making a simple
firecracker to a complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive
high explosive, both of which are methods that could be utilized
by perpetrators of terror.
4.41 PAPER CONTAINERS
Paper was the first container ever used for explosives,
since it was first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper
containers are usually very simple to make, and are certainly the
cheapest. There are many possible uses for paper in containing
explosives, and the two most obvious are in firecrackers and
rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and
gluing it together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps
a more interesting and dangerous use is in the firecracker. The
firecracker shown here is one of Mexican design. It is called a
"polumna", meaning "dove". The process of their manufacture is
not unlike that of making a paper football. If one takes a sheet
of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold
one corner so that it looks like this:
________________________________________________________
| |\
| | \
| | \
|______________________________________________________|___\
and then fold it again so that it looks like this:
_______________________________________________________
| /|
| / |
| / |
|__________________________________________________/___|
A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black
powder, pyrodex, flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or
any of the quick-burning fuel- oxodizer mixtures that occur in
the form of a fine powder. A fuse is then inserted, and one
continues the triangular folds, being careful not to spill out
any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished, it should be
taped together very tightly, since this will increase the
strength of the container, and produce a louder and more powerful
explosion when it is lit. The finished polumna should look like
a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick triangle, like the one shown below:
^
/ \ ----- securely tape all corners
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \____________________________
/_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse4.42 METAL CONTAINERS
The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a
metal-contained explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped
matches and cut off the match heads. They pound one end of a
pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white- tipped matches, and
then pound the other end closed. This process often kills the
fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily
cause enough friction between the match heads to cause them to
ignite and explode the unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the
process is somewhat safer, and the less stupid anarchist would
never use white tipped matches in a bomb. He would buy two pipe
caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1). First, he would drill a hole in
one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out,
and so powder will not escape during handling. The fuse would be
at least 3/4 an inch long inside the bomb. He would then screw
the cap with the fuse in it on tightly, possibly putting a drop
of super glue on it to hold it tight. He would then pour his
explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it tightly, he would take
a large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the
very top, pack the powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod
tip, and pushing it with a pencil or other wide ended object,
until it would not move any further. Finally, he would screw the
other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue paper would help
prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads of
the pipe or pipe cap from being crushed and subject to friction,
which might ignite the powder, causing an explosion during
manufacture. An assembled bomb is shown in fig. 2.
_________ _______________ __________
| | ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ | |
| |vvvvv| |_________________________| |vvvvvv| |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | ___________________________ | |
| | | | | |
| |^^^^^| vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv |^^^^^^| |
|_______| |________|
fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps.
________ ________
| _____|________________________________|_____ |
| |__________________________________________| |
| |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
| | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_|
| | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ----------------------
| | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| fuse
| |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
| |________|_________________________________| |
| |__________________________________________| |
|______| |______|
endcap pipe endcap w/ hole
fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb. This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use.
If, however, he did not have access to threaded pipe with
endcaps, he could always use a piece of copper or aluminum pipe,
since it is easily bent into a suitable position. A major
problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding it
without tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and
bending copper pipe, it will split along the fold. The safest
method for making a pipe bomb out of copper or aluminum pipe is
similar to the method with pipe and endcaps. First, one flattens
one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure not
to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should
be folded over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A
fuse hole should be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end,
and the fuse should be inserted. Next, the bomb-builder would
fill the bomb with a low order explosive, and pack it with a
large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold the
other end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too
dumb, he would do this slowly, since the process of folding and
bending metal gives off heat, which could set off the explosive.
A diagram is presented below:
________
_______________________________________________/ |
| |
| o |
|______________________________________________ |
\_______|
fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled
(top view)
______
____________________________________________/ | |
| | |
| o | |
|___________________________________________ | |
\__|__|
fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view)
____________ fuse hole
|
v
_________________________________________________
| \ |____ |
| \____| |
| ______|
| /
|_____________________________/__________________
fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view) _________________ fuse
/
|
_______ _____________________________|___ _______
| ____| / | - - - - - - - - - - - | \ |___ |
| |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - |- - \ ____| |
|________ paper |- - - low order explosive - ______|
\ | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - /
\______|____________________________/
fig. 4 completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and
explosive (side view)
A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent
container for a low-order explosive. It has one minor
disadvantage: it is time consuming to fill. But this can be
rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge with a pointed
tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the CO2
cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast
burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices
are commonly called "crater makers".
A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit
incendiary device, but it must be modified. The opening in the
end must be widened, so that the ignition mixture, such as
powdered magnesium, does not explode. The fuse will ignite the
powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the thermit.
The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are
fine for low-order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order
explosives, since the latter requires a shockwave to be
detonated. A design employing a smaller low-order explosive
device inside a larger device containing a high-order explosive
would probably be used. It would look something like:
_________________fuse
|
|
|
_________ | _________
| ____|__________________________|___________|____ |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * high explosive | * * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | |
| | * ______ _______________|_ ______ * | |
| | * * | __| / - - - - - - | \ |__ | * | |
| | * | |____/ low explosive - \____| | * | |
| | * * |_______ - - - - - - - - - _______| * | |
| | * * * * * \ - - - - - - - - / * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * \_________________/ * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | |
| |______________________________________________| |
|_______| |_______| If the large high explosive container is small, such as a
CO2 cartridge, then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be
made into a low-order pipe bomb, which can be fitted with a fuse,
and inserted into the CO2 cartridge.
4.43 GLASS CONTAINERS
Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives,
but there are problems with them. First, a glass container can
be broken relatively easily compared to metal or plastic
containers. Secondly, in the not-too-unlikely event of an
"accident", the person making the device would probably be
seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out
of a sample perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands
of one boy, and he still has pieces of glass in his hand. He is
also missing the final segment of his ring finger, which was cut
off by a sharp piece of flying glass...
Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be
used by a demented individual, since such a device would not be
detected by metal detectors in an airport or other public place.
All that need be done is fill the container, and drill a hole in
the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly in, and screw the
cap-fuse assembly on. ________________________ fuse
|
|
|
_____|_____
| ___|___ |
| > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse;
| > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap
| > | < |
| | |
| |
| |
| | screw cap on bottle
| |
| |
V V
_________
< >
< >
< >
/ \
/ \
/ \
| | fill bottle with low-order explosive
| |
| |
| |
| |
|___________|
Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not
practicle, since glass is not an exceptionally strong container.
Much of the explosive that is used to fill the container is
wasted if the container is much larger than a 16 oz. soda bottle.
Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for high explosive
devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand the
explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high
explosive was able to detonate.
4.44 PLASTIC CONTAINERS
Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for
explosives, since they can be any size or shape, and are not
fragile like glass. Plastic piping can be bought at hardware or
plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones used for metal
containers can be made. The high-order version works well with
plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it
is not detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can
usually be shaped by heating the container, and bending it at the
appropriate place. They can be glued closed with epoxy or other
cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used as an Mark
BylokDþPP1W Fe about 3/4 of an inch long. 5.32 SPECIAL
AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS A .22 caliber pellet
gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at close ranges.
Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be
adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to
that used in section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are
about .22 caliber or smaller.Or, a design similar to that in
section 5.31 could be used, only one would have to purchase black
powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since
there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap
is too small, but anything larger will do nicely.6.0 ROCKETS
AND CANNONS Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as
heavy artillery. Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ
such devices, because they are difficult or impossible to
acquire. They are not, however, impossible to make. Any
individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make
such things. A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is,
indeed, something to fear.6.1 ROCKETS Rockets were first
developed by the Chinese several hundred years before Christ.
They were used for entertainment, in the form of fireworks. They
were not usually used for military purposes because they were
inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times,
however, rockets are used constantly by the military, since they
are cheap, reliable, and have no recoil. Perpetrators of
violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but they
can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular
hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is
required. Estes, a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading
manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines. Their most
powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs. of
thrust enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a
significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce
even larger rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs. of
thrust.~
|
|
and here ______|
Bend wire to this shape: _______ insert into straw
|
|
|
V
____________________________________________
\
\
\
\
\ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle
|
|
|
|
|
| <---------- put this end in ground
|
6.12 LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB
Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets.
Model rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed
for use in multi- stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is
an excellent example of such an engine. Immediately after the
thrust period is over, the ejection charge explodes. If another
engine is placed directly against the back of an "0" engine, the
explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and burning
particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the
thrust section. This will push the used "0" engine off of the
rocket, causing an overall loss of weight. The main advantage of
a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as travels, and it
gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed somewhat
differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a
rocket to fly straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of
its center of drag. This is accomplished by adding weight to the
front of the rocket, or by moving the center of drag back by
putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the rocket. A
diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page: ___
/ \
| |
| C |
| M | ------ CM: Crater Maker
| |
| |
|___|
| |
| |
| |
| C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine
/| 6 |\
/ | | | \
/ | 5 | \
/ |___| \ ---- fin
/ /| |\ \
/ / | | \ \
/ / | | \ \
/ / | C | \ \
| / | 6 | \ |
| / | | | \ |
| / | 0 | \ |
|/ |___| \|
| / \ |
\______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin
|
|
|
|
C6-0 rocket engine
The fuse is put in the bottom engine.
Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket
bomb to give it a longer range. It is important, however, that
for each additional stage, the fin area gets larger.
6.13 MULTIPLE WARHEAD ROCKET BOMBS
"M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry Vehicle. The
concept is simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a
single missile. This can be done without too much difficulty by
anyone who knows how to make crater-makers and can buy rocket
engines. By attaching crater makers with long fuses to a rocket,
it is possible that a single rocket could deliver several
explosive devices to a target. Such a rocket might look like the
diagram on the following page: ___
/ \
| |
| C |
| M |
|___|
___| |___
| | | |
| | T | |
/ \ | U | / \
/ \| B |/ \
| || E || |
| C || || C |
| M || || M |
| ||___|| |
\___/| E |\___/
| N |
/| G |\
/ | I | \
/ | N | \
/ | E | \
/ |___| \
/ fin/ | \ fin\
| / | \ |
\__/ | \__/
^
|____ fin
The crater makers are attached to the tube of rolled paper
with tape. the paper tube is made by rolling and gluing a 4 inch
by 8 inch piece of paper. The tube is glued to the engine, and is
filled with gunpowder or black powder. Small holes are punched in
it, and the fuses of the crater makers are inserted in these
holes. A crater maker is glued to the open end of the tube, so
that its fuse is inside the tube. A fuse is inserted in the
engine, or in the bottom engine if the rocket bomb is multi
stage, and the rocket is launched from the coathanger launcher,
if a segment of a plastic straw has been attached to it.
6.2 CANNON
The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use
since the 11th century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is
filled with powder, loaded, and fired. Cannons of this sort must
also be cleaned after each shot, otherwise, the projectile may
jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing the barrel to
explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much
trouble, if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience.6.21 BASIC PIPE CANNON
A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost
anyone. The only difficult part is finding a pipe that is
extremely smooth on its interior. This is absolutely necessary;
otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or aluminum piping is
usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick to
withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a
cannon. If one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since
such a projectile can be made to explode, a pipe that is about
1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a pipe MUST have walls that are
at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very smooth on the
interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe.
Otherwise, the pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without
cracking or tearing the pipe. A small hole is drilled in the back
of the pipe near the crimp or endplug. Then, all that need be
done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of grade
blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming
a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2
cartridge. Brace the cannon securely against a strong structure,
light the fuse, and run. If the person is lucky, he will not
have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit by pieces of
exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this:
__________________ fuse hole
|
|
V
______________________________________________________________
|____________________________________________________________|
|endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge
_____|_______|______|____|____________________________________
|____________________________________________________________|
An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon
with a CO2 cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a
crater maker, and construct it such that the fuse projects about
an inch from the end of the cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with
duct tape, covering it entirely, except for a small amount at the
end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a tissue paper
packing wad. When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of
the fuse, and shoot the CO2 cartridge. The explosive-filled
cartridge will explode in about three seconds, if all goes well.
Such a projectile would look like this: ___
/ \
| |
| C |
| M |
| |
| |
|\ /|
| | | ---- tape
|_|_|
|
| ------ fuse
6.22 ROCKET FIRING CANNON
A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal
cannon; the only difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired
from a cannon will fly further than a rocket alone, since the
action of shooting it overcomes the initial inertia. A rocket
that is launched when it is moving will go further than one that
is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a
normal rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look
like this:
___
/ \
| |
| C |
| M |
| |
| |
|___|
| E |
| N |
| G |
| I |
| N |
| E |
|___|
the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it
would not be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded.
Thus, the delay before the ejection charge, in effect, becomes
the delay before the bomb explodes. Note that no fuse need be put
in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannon will ignite it,
and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high
velocity.7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a
perpetrator of violence might employ. Smoke bombs can be
purchased in magic stores, and large military smoke bombs can be
bought through adds in gun and military magazines. Also,
fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large aerial
display rocket would cause many injuries if it were to be fired
so that it landed on the ground near a crowd of people. Even the
"harmless" pull-string fireworks, which consists of a sort of
firecracker that explodes when the strings running through it are
pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive high
explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be useful
to the sociopath, and sucPage twelve, he produced his first
explosive device; it was slightly more powerful than a large
firecracker. He continued to produce explosive devices for
several years. He also became interested in model rocketry, and
has built several rockets from kits, and designed his own
rockets. While in high school, the author became affiliated with
CHAOS, and eventually became the head of Gunzenbomz
Pyro-Technologies. At this time, at age 18, he produced his
first high explosive device, putting a 1 foot deep crater in an
associate's back yard. He had also produced many types of
rockets, explosive ammunition, and other pyrotechnic devices.
While he was heading Gunzenbomz Pyro- Technologies, he was
injured when a home made device exploded in his hand; he did not
make the device. The author learned, however, and then decided
to reform, and although he still constructs an occasional
explosive device, he chooses to abstain from their production.
An occasional rocket that produces effects similar to that of
professional displays can sometimes be seen in the midnight sky
near his college, and the Fourth of July is still his favorite
day of the year.
|
